Dueling Dates

It's always nice to have options, especially when it comes to dates. I can't help you with your love life if that's what you were hoping for (and I'm not going to reveal any juicy scoop on mine, sorry). But I can share two very good dueling stuffed date (as in the medjool kind) recipes.

Tonight was Western Mediterranean Class. We made Moroccan cous cous, harissa spiced carrots and homemade pita, among other phenomenal recipes. It was my favorite class so far. If I could only cook one cuisine, this would be it. For dessert, there was mint tea and a sweet version of stuffed dates with yogurt, mint and orange zest. When I entertain a signature appetizer of mine is a savory version of a similar recipe -- I call them "Date Bon Bons." Here are the recipes for both!

Date Recipe #1: Savory Date Bon Bons

This appetizer is an easy single bite that artfully combines the intense sweetness of the date and saltiness of the prosciutto. The goat cheese adds a creaminess and the basil heightens all the flavors. Using basil struck me as weird before I tried it, but believe me it's a key ingredient. And if you want to make them vegetarian, use the basil without the prosciutto as the wrap. These are extremely simple and can be prepped ahead, then broiled at the last minute.

Ingredients

1/3 cup soft herbed goat cheese
16 Medjool dates, pitted
16 large basil leaves
4 wide, thin slices prosciutto di Parma, each cut into 4 long strips
16 toothpicks, soaked in water 10 minutes

Procedure

1 Heat broiler to low.
2 Spoon 1 teaspoon cheese into each date; wrap with a basil leaf, then a prosciutto strip. Secure with a toothpick.
3 Broil until cheese bubbles, about 3 minutes. Serve warm.

Nutritional analysis per serving: 187 calories per 2 dates, 3 g fat (1.9 g saturated), 36 g carbs, 3.3 g fiber, 6 g protein

Source: Self Magazine, December 2007

Date Recipe #2: Sweet Lebneh Stuffed Dates

Ingredients

24 medjool dates, split on the top and pit removed
1 cup yogurt cheese (Lebneh), make the night before (or skip this step and buy at TJs)
1 orange, zested
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ cup fresh mint, finely chopped
½ cup almonds, toasted and chopped

Procedure

1 To make the yogurt cheese (make the night before), line a fine mesh strainer with a thin linen towel or several layers of cheesecloth. Set over a bowl. Pour the yogurt into the prepared strainer and then gather the edges of the towel together so that the yogurt is covered. Allow to sit in the refrigerator overnight to drain, or for a few days for an even thicker cheese. Or as a short cut, Trader Joes also sells Lebneh.
2 Place the pitted dates on a flat surface. In a bowl, mix together the yogurt cheese, orange zest, vanilla, and mint. Fill each date with some of the mixture. It is easiest to pipe the yogurt mixture into the dates with a pastry bag. Sprinkle the dates with the almonds and serve.

Servings: 12
Author: Jennifer Miller, Natural Chef Instructor/Culinary Administrator

Galette Recipe #1: Blueberry Mini Galettes with Lemon Curd

Last week’s classes were baking – both sweet and savory. By far my favorite treat of both was a blueberry galette (a pie, only more “rustic"), which I'm sharing the recipe for below. Our version macerated (marinating in acid and spices until the fruit breaks down) blueberries, tucked them into free form crusts to form individual mini pies, and baked until bubbly. As a counter to the sweet berries, we dolloped lemon curd on top. My mom, who loves all things tart and curdy (and once embarrassed me thoroughly during a nice mother's day brunch at the Ritz by asking for more "lemon turd please"), would have loved the full combination. The end result was an extremely flavorful interplay of sweet gooey filling, crispy crust and tangy citrus. And it was reasonably healthy for a dessert, since there was no refined sugar. So yes, you can have your pie and eat it too. Just don't have my mom order it for you at a restaurant.

Blueberry Mini Galettes with Lemon Curd

Galettes can be filled with seasonal fruit and served for dessert, or they can also be made savory and stuffed with vegetables. This recipe uses spelt flour instead refined white flour for the pastry crust. The combination of blueberry and lemon is perfect for early Spring, when both are in season. It would still be very good by itself if you don't want to go to the trouble of making the curd, or topped with ice cream instead.

Ingredients

CRUST
4 cups spelt flour
1 tsp salt
2 Tbs unrefined cane sugar, sucanat (1:1 substitution for regular sugar)
2 ½ sticks butter, cold, cut into pieces
⅔ to 1 cup ice water, as needed

FILLING
4 ½ cups fresh blueberries
3 Tbs arrowroot
1 ½ Tbs lemon zest
1 ½ Tbs fresh lemon juice
¾ tsp cinnamon
¼ tsp salt
¼ cup honey
1 tsp vanilla extract

LEMON CURD
5 large egg yolks
1 large egg
½ cup fresh lemon juice
1 Tbs lemon zest
⅓ cup honey
4 Tbs butter, cut into pieces

Procedure

1 Preheat the oven to 400.
2 DOUGH: Mix together the flour, salt, and sugar together in a bowl. Cut in the butter by hand, leaving some pea-sized chunks. Sprinkle the ice water over the top by the tablespoon and toss it with the flour mixture until you can bring the dough together into a ball. Press it into a disk and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
3 FILLING: While the dough is in the refrigerator, prepare the filling. Mix together the blueberries, arrowroot, lemon zest and juice, cinnamon, salt, honey, and vanilla. Taste and adjust sweetness and lemon flavor as desired.
4 ASSEMBLY: remove the dough from the refrigerator and break into 12 pieces. Roll each piece into a circle about ⅛ inch thick. Transfer onto large parchment lined sheet pans. Add some fruit mixture to the center of the circle and spread, leaving a border 2 to 4 inches wide. Fold the edges of the dough over the fruit, overlapping as you go. Depending on how much of an edge you have left, the galette will be partially or completely covered.
5 Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the crust is golden brown.
6 LEMON CURD: In a stainless steel bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and egg, lemon juice, and honey.
7 Place the bowl on top of a pot of simmering water and whisk constantly until pale and thickened, 7 to 10 minutes.
8 Remove from the heat and stir in the butter and lemon zest. Let cool to room temperature.
9 TO SERVE: Put a dollop of the lemon curd on top of each galette.

Servings: 12 - 14 mini pies, or 1 large one
Source: Bauman College

Is it better to take the easy road?

My friend Vivian asked me recently whether I thought food that takes longer to cook is usually better. The Slow Food movement certainly thinks so. And everyone likes to believe that hard work pays off. Last night I tested two Moroccan chicken recipes -- an easy one made in class, the other challenging made at home. Both turned out delicious and if you weren't the one putting in the effort, you'd never know the first took half an hour, and the second hours (spread over a multi-day process). Though the recipes have similar spices, the finished dishes taste different. I recommend both, so take your pick depending on how ambitious (or not) you're feeling!

And I'm happy to report that chicken class went without incident. Evidently I have no poultry issues like I do with seafood... I even made an improv chicken liver pate from the less desirable parts most of the class didn't want to touch. Photos coming soon.

Recipe #1 (Easy): Braised Moroccan Chicken with Lemon Charmoula Sauce and Olives

This recipe takes approximately 30 minutes. Preserved lemons can be purchased at Middle Eastern markets, or can also be made at home (though they take a month to "preserve").

Ingredients

1 yellow onion, diced
¾ cup chopped parsley, and a little more for garnish
½ tsp turmeric
½ tsp ground ginger
½ tsp mild paprika
½ tsp ground cumin
⅛ tsp cayenne
½ tsp salt, more to taste
1 tsp agave nectar
3 Tbs olive oil
8 chicken pieces, bone-in, with skin
1 cup stock (chicken or vegetable), or water
1 tsp lemon zest
½ preserved lemon, skin only, finely chopped
½ lemon juiced
½ cup kalamata olives, pits in

Procedure

1 Mix the onion, parsley, spices, salt and agave nectar in a medium bowl.

2 Heat 2 T of the olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the chicken in a single layer and cook 2-3 minutes on each side until slightly browned.

3 Add the stock and onion mixture. Bring the stock to a boil; reduce heat to low, cover and cook gently for 20 minutes, until the chicken is tender and no pink flesh remains.

4 Remove the chicken pieces to a platter. Turn the heat up to medium-high, add the preserved lemon and let the sauce simmer for 2-3 minutes until reduced slightly. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the lemon zest, lemon juice, and olives.

5 Spoon the sauce over the chicken. Drizzle with the remaining olive oil and garnish with the remaining parsley.

Author: Alison Anton, Natural Chef Instructor

Recipe #2 (Challenging): Chicken in parchment with Moroccan Aromatics and Lentils

Though this takes hours, it is nice for a dinner-party because you prepare the stew the night before, cook before serving, and then present dramatic looking parchment parcels (yes, revisiting the "en papillote" method).

Ingredients

½ cup French Puy lentils
½ medium onion
1 cinnamon stick
4 sprigs thyme
3 lbs chicken pieces on the bone
1 cup plain flour
1 tsp sweet paprika
1 tsp salt
1/4 cup olive oil
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 lb potatoes, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch dice
1/2 lb carrots, scraped and cut into 3/4-inch dice
2 tbsp chermoula (see separate recipe below)
1 can crushed tomatoes (14 ounces)
½ preserved lemon, skin only, finely chopped
1 qt chicken stock (I used less)
3/4 lb squash or pumpkin, peeled and cut into 3/4 inch dice
salt and pepper
2 tbsp honey
1/4 cup parsley leaves, finely chopped
1/4 cup cilantro leaves, finaly chopped (optional)
parchment paper
kitchen string

Procedure

1 Place the lentils in three times their volume of cold water with the onoin half, cinnamon stick and thyme. Bring to a boil then lower heat and simmer uncovered 20 minutes, or until just tender. Straing.

2 Mix flour and paprika. Dust the chicken in the mixture. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-based pan, add chicken pieces and saute until golden all over. Add onion, potatoes and carrots, mix well. Add the chermoula, coating all ingredients, then the tomatoes and preserved lemon, and the stock. Bring to a boil, then lower heat, cover and simmer for 8 minutes.

3 Add the lentils and squash and cook uncovered for a further 5 minutes, by which time the vegetables should all be just tender and the chicken just cooked. Remove the pan from the heat. Allow to cool and then refrigerate overnight.

4 To serve, preheat oven to 350F. Using baking parchment, cut four large circles. Adjust stew seasonings with salt, pepper, honey and additional charmoula if needed. Place each circle, one by one, into a deep bowl and heap in the chicken stew, ensuring even amounts of chicken, veggies and sauce. Sprinkle with lots of chopped herbs. Be careful not to overfill otherwise you will not be able to close. Gather the edges of the paper together above the mixture and tie with the kitchen string so you have a little bag. Place the parcels on a baking sheet and cover with foil (this stops the tops from getting crispy and the strong from burning).

5 Cook for half an hour and serve individual parcels for each person to open up and release the braise within. Serve with a grain such as couscous, quinoa or brown rice.

Note: You could simpify by cooking longer on the stove and not using the parchment bundles.

Chermoula

In addition to the stew above, chermoula is often used with fish dishes. Its chili-heat content can be varied to taste. This keeps for a month in the refrigerator; top with a little oil each time you use it.

3 tbsp cumin seeds, toasted and crushed
1tbsp coriander seeds, toasted and crushed
2tbsp sweet paprika
1 tbsp ground ginger
2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped
2 - 4 whole serrano chilis, deseeded, scraped, and roughly chopped
Juice of 2 lemons
1/2 tsp pepper
1/2 tsp salt

Put all ingredients into a blender or food processor and process until garlic and chilis have been ground to a paste.

Source: "Artichoke to Za'atar (Modern Middle Eastern Food)"

Feeling Saucey?

My favorites from sauce class. These recipes provide a nice "classic" and "healthy alternative" foil to each other. Both work well on seafood, poultry or vegetables.

Herb-Butter and Olive Oil Sauce
A classic butter sauce that's a great way to make a simple sauce with any variety of herbs, just follow the approx. amounts below. Use good quality organic butter for healthy fats.

Ingredients
¼ cup parsley
½ bunch chives
1 Tbs tarragon
1 clove garlic
salt
2 Tbs capers, rinsed
1 tsp lemon zest
1 shallot, minced
5 Tbs butter, at room temperature
3 Tbs olive oil
fresh lemon juice

Procedure
1 Blanch the herbs for 1 minute in a cup or so of boiling water, then drain in a fine strainer and blot dry. Finely chop the herbs.

2 Pound the garlic and ¼ teaspoon salt in a mortar to a paste. In a bowl, beat together the herbs, garlic paste, capers, lemon zest, shallot, and butter with a wooden spoon, then gradually mix in the olive oil. Taste and season with a pinch of salt and lemon juice to taste.

Yield: 0.5 cup
Author: From "Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone" by Deborah Madison


Nut and Seed Cream Sauce
This contemporary cream sauce is made with nuts and seeds instead of dairy. Add more nutritional yeast to make an alternative to cheese sauce. I couldn't stop going back for this, as odd as it may seem at first glance.

Ingredients
½ cup cashews
½ cup macadamia nuts
¼ cup lemon juice
2 Tbs nutritional yeast
2 Tbs sesame seeds
1 Tbs onion powder
1 ½ tsp salt
1 tsp garlic powder
⅛ tsp celery seed
1 ½ cups water
¼ cup sunflower oil
white pepper, to taste

Procedure
1 Add all the ingredients, except for the oil, to a blender and puree until smooth. With the motor still on, drizzle in the oil.

2 Transfer to a saucepan and simmer for about 10 minutes, until thickened. Season with white pepper to taste. Adjust seasoning if necessary.

Author: Adapted from Bianca Hastings, Natural Chef Graduate